Model Extreme I-Beam Load Pictures

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I have included pictures that I used in the Powerpoint presentation for the Extreme Steel Loads clinic at the 2012 NMRA Convention in Grand Rapids MI. Following the Extreme Steel Loads handout and using these pictures will give you a step by step procedure on how to make this model. These models are not difficult, nor are they very hard to do. The last several pictures are of the models that I have made with extreme I-beam loads.

All of the .030 plastic pieces cut and ready to assemble.

Attaching the first vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the second vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the third vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the fourth vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the fifth vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the "Top Cap" to the right side of the short end of the beam.

Attaching the sixth vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the "Top Cap" extension between the fourth and fifth vertical brace to the right side of the beam.

Attaching the first vertical brace to the left side of the beam. Attach all of the vertical braces, "Top Cap," and "Top Cap" extension on the left side of the beam as you did on the right side of the beam. Notice that I used scrap .250 square plastic to support the beam while working on the left side.

Attaching the short "Top Cap" to the beam between the fourth and fifth vertical brace.

Attaching the "Top Cap" on the curved portion of the beam.

Attaching the short "Bottom Cap" on the "Big End" of the beam.

Attach the "End Cap" on the "Small End" of the beam.

Attaching the long "Bottom Cap" extension between the second vertical brace and the "small end" of the beam.

Inspect the "Top Cap" of the beam and fill any problem areas with Squadron Green Putty.

Inspect the "Bottom Cap" of the beam and fill any problem areas with Squadron Green Putty.

Wet sand the "Top Cap" of the beam with 400 grit sand paper to get a smooth finish.

Wet sand the "Bottom Cap" of the beam with 400 grit sand paper to get a smooth finish.

Use blue Painter's Tape to mask off the area on the bottom of the beam between the second vertical brace and the "Big End" of the beam. This is the area where the beam will be glued to the flatcar. Trim the tape as close to the beam as possible with out covering the sides of the beam. Do not remove the tape from the bottom of the beam until you are ready to glue the beam to the flatcar.

Paint the beam Gunship Gray.

Add the "upside down" "494" and set with Solvaset.

Cover the "Big End" of the beam to the third vertical brace with a heavy coat of Rust All. It may take more than one coat of Rust All to get the beam looking as rusty as you would like.

Build a paint mask out of scrap .030 plastic. This is a top view of the paint mask.

This is a bottom view of the paint mask.

Beam with paint mask in place to.

Beam after repainting using the paint mask.

Use dark brown and black chalks to make vertical weathering marks.

Paint the truck frames and wheel sets brown to give them the look of old weathered trucks and wheels. Don't paint the wheel tread or the outer lip of the tread. This gives the look of a wheel sets that have been through the retainers in hump yards.